Legendary American mountaineer Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest has died at the age of 97. He passed away on April 7 at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, according to family sources.

Whittaker made history on May 1, 1963, when he reached the world’s highest peak alongside Sherpa Nawang Gombu, which made American mountaineering sector proud during the Cold War era. His ascent brought him national fame and inspired a generation of climbers worldwide.

Born in Seattle in 1929, Whittaker began his climbing career at a young age and later became deeply involved with the outdoor industry. He joined REI in 1955 and eventually rose to become its CEO, helping transform it into one of the leading outdoor retail cooperatives in the United States.

Beyond Everest, Whittaker led several expeditions, including the successful American ascent of K2 in 1978 and the historic 1990 “Peace Climb,” on Mt Everest which brought together climbers from the United States, China, and the Soviet Union during a period of geopolitical tension.

He was also known for promoting inclusivity in mountaineering, leading a 1981 expedition on Mount Rainier that included climbers with disabilities an effort he later described as one of the proudest achievements of his life.

Widely respected for his climbing achievements, environmental advocacy and leadership, Whittaker remained active in the outdoors well into his later years.

He is survived by his wife, children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren.