French alpinists Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean have made the long-awaited first ascent of Jannu East (7,468 m) — one of the unclimbed peaks in the Himalayas.
After a failed attempt the previous year, the duo returned stronger and succeeded on their second try, climbing the 2,300-metre North Face via the East Ridge in pure alpine style. They named their new route “Top of the Pikes” a proud and bold line on one of the world’s most forbidding mountains.
“Summiting Jannu East is undoubtedly the greatest achievement of my mountaineering career,” said Védrines. “Climbing such a challenging, long and difficult face in alpine style, on a summit that had never been climbed before, had a profound effect on me. Once we reached the top, after so many trials and tribulations, tears flowed. A dream had come true.”
For Nicolas Jean, it was a deeply personal climb. “A childhood dream coming true. A virgin summit, a big face, alpine style, technical mountaineering, and above all a rope companion. We experienced all the ingredients of high-altitude Himalayanism. This ascent also marks the end of my mountaineering career.”
The Jannu East Expedition 2025 took nearly two months, testing their patience, and partnership. Both climbers spoke of the unity and trust that carried them to the top, calling the climb “a collective story”, a tribute to Nepal, their friends, and everyone who supported them.
An outstanding achievement. In a world now filled with the commercialisation of climbing summits Benjamin and Nicholas have shown us that the soul of true alpinism is still beating strongly. Their achievement is worthy of the Piolets D’or.